A Comprehensive Guide to 1920s Underwear

The 1920s was a transformative decade in fashion, marked by significant societal changes and a departure from the restrictive garments of the previous era. As women gained more freedom and began to express their individuality, the evolution of underwear mirrored these shifts. This guide explores the various styles of 1920s underwear, their materials, and how they contributed to the iconic silhouettes of the time.

Types and Applications of 1920s Underwear

Type of Underwear	Description	Material	Purpose
Corsets	Traditional garment worn to shape the waist.	Cotton, silk, and lace	To create an hourglass figure, though less popular by the end of the decade.
Girdles	A softer alternative to corsets, often unboned.	Elastic, cotton	To smooth the waist and hips without constriction.
Chemises	A loose-fitting undergarment worn under dresses.	Cotton, silk, rayon	To provide comfort and modesty while allowing movement.
Camisoles	Sleeveless undergarment that covered the upper body.	Silk, chiffon	To provide light coverage and support under dresses.
Drawers	Loose-fitting underpants that replaced petticoats.	Cotton, silk	To offer modesty and comfort, often knee-length.
Teddies	A one-piece garment combining a camisole and drawers.	Lace, silk	To provide a sleek, modern look beneath dresses.
Negligées	A more elaborate, often sheer nightwear.	Silk, sheer fabrics	To express femininity and seduction, reflecting the era’s liberation.

The Evolution of Women’s Underwear in the 1920s

As the 1920s began, women’s fashion underwent a revolution. The restrictive styles of the Edwardian era—characterized by tight corsets and voluminous skirts—gave way to a more relaxed and boyish silhouette. Bygone Theatre emphasizes that the authenticity of period costumes hinges not just on outer garments but also on the correct undergarments that shape the overall look.

The Decline of Corsets

While corsets were still worn at the beginning of the decade, their popularity steadily declined. The shift towards a more natural figure led to the adoption of girdles and corselets, which provided support without the rigidity of traditional corsets. Vintage Dancer notes that many flappers opted to forgo corsets altogether, embracing comfort and freedom to dance.

The Rise of Simplicity and Elegance

1920s lingerie was characterized by its simplicity and elegance. Fabrics like silk chiffon and crepe de chine became popular, as they were lightweight and draped beautifully over the new, straighter silhouette. Sew Historically highlights that the notion of daintiness and freshness became paramount in lingerie design, leading to more delicate and refined undergarments.

The Influence of Modernism

The modernist movement of the 1920s influenced not only fashion but also underwear. Women sought garments that reflected their new identities and desires. Tatter explains that the post-war exuberance translated into a desire for freedom in clothing, leading to the creation of more luxurious yet functional lingerie.

Key Styles of 1920s Underwear

Corsets and Girdles

Though the corset’s popularity waned, it was still a common sight at the beginning of the decade. By the mid-1920s, the girdle emerged as a preferred alternative, offering a more flexible fit. These garments were often made from elastic and cotton, allowing for comfort while maintaining a smooth silhouette.

Chemises and Camisoles

Chemises became essential undergarments throughout the decade. They were designed to be worn under dresses, providing a soft layer against the skin. Camisoles, often paired with matching drawers, offered a fashionable yet functional option for women seeking comfort and style.

Teddies and Negligées

The teddy, combining the elements of a chemise and drawers, became popular as women embraced a more liberated approach to undergarments. Negligées, on the other hand, represented a more sensual side of lingerie. Olyinka notes that these pieces often featured intricate designs and luxurious fabrics, allowing women to express their femininity and allure.

Materials Used in 1920s Underwear

The materials used for 1920s underwear played a critical role in shaping the garments’ comfort and aesthetic. Silk, cotton, and rayon were the most commonly used fabrics. Silk was favored for its luxurious feel, while cotton offered breathability and ease of care. The introduction of rayon allowed for a more affordable option that maintained a level of elegance.

Durability and Functionality

As fashion trends evolved, so did the emphasis on durability and functionality. According to Vintage Fashion, the quality of the fabric was often directly linked to a woman’s social status. Higher quality materials typically indicated a more affluent lifestyle, while lower-quality fabrics were accessible to the middle class.

The Shift in Fashion Ideals

The 1920s marked a significant shift in fashion ideals. The ideal female form transitioned from the curvy hourglass figure to a more streamlined, boyish silhouette. Witness2Fashion emphasizes the importance of undergarments in achieving this look, as they flattened the bust and hips, further promoting the straight lines of contemporary dresses.

The Impact of Social Change

With women gaining the right to vote and entering the workforce, their fashion choices began to reflect their newfound independence. The undergarments of the time became symbols of liberation rather than mere necessities. This change was instrumental in influencing the designs of lingerie, which became more expressive and less restrictive.

Technical Features of 1920s Underwear

Feature	Corsets	Girdles	Chemises	Teddies
Structure	Boned, rigid	Unboned, flexible	Loose-fitting	Combined top and bottom
Support	High	Medium	Low	Low
Closure	Hooks, laces	Hook-and-eye, elastic	Slip-on	Snap or slip-on
Fabric	Cotton, silk, lace	Elastic, cotton	Cotton, silk	Lace, silk
Typical Use	Daily wear, formal wear	Daily wear	Under dresses	Sleepwear, intimate wear

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Conclusion

The 1920s were a pivotal decade for women’s underwear, reflecting broader societal changes and the move towards comfort and liberation. As corsets fell out of favor, new styles emerged that emphasized a more natural silhouette. The materials used in lingerie also evolved, showcasing a blend of luxury and practicality. This era not only transformed fashion but also laid the foundation for the ongoing evolution of women’s undergarments.

FAQ

What types of underwear were popular in the 1920s?
In the 1920s, popular types of underwear included corsets, girdles, chemises, camisoles, drawers, teddies, and negligées. Each served different purposes, from shaping the body to providing comfort and modesty.

How did the design of women’s underwear change during the 1920s?
The design shifted from restrictive corsets that emphasized an hourglass figure to more relaxed garments that created a boyish silhouette, reflecting the era’s liberation and modernism.

What materials were commonly used for 1920s underwear?
Common materials included silk, cotton, and rayon. Silk was favored for its luxurious feel, while cotton provided breathability. Rayon offered a more affordable alternative that still maintained elegance.

Did women still wear corsets in the 1920s?
While corsets were still worn at the beginning of the decade, their popularity declined significantly as women opted for more comfortable alternatives like girdles and corselets.

What role did social change play in the evolution of underwear?
Social changes, such as women’s suffrage and increased participation in the workforce, influenced the evolution of underwear. Women sought garments that offered comfort and freedom, and lingerie became a means of expressing their individuality.

How did the silhouette of women’s fashion change in the 1920s?
The silhouette transitioned from curvy and structured to a more slender and boyish shape, reflecting the decline of corsets and the rise of straight-cut dresses.

What were negligées, and how did they reflect the era?
Negligées were elaborate, often sheer nightwear that represented femininity and sensuality. They became popular as women embraced their newfound independence and expressed their desires through fashion.

How did the quality of underwear reflect social status in the 1920s?
The quality of underwear often indicated a woman’s social status, with higher-quality fabrics signaling affluence. This distinction was important in a society where clothing choices reflected one’s place in the social hierarchy.

What was the significance of teddies in the 1920s?
Teddies combined the elements of a chemise and drawers into a single garment, offering convenience and a modern look. They symbolized the evolving attitudes towards women’s lingerie during the decade.

How did advertisements influence underwear trends in the 1920s?
Advertisements played a crucial role in shaping underwear trends, promoting new styles and ideas about femininity. They reflected societal changes and encouraged women to embrace more expressive and less restrictive undergarments.