A Comprehensive Guide to 14th Century Clothing

The 14th century marked a significant evolution in European fashion, moving from the rigid styles of the earlier Middle Ages to a more diverse and expressive array of clothing. This era saw the rise of sophisticated garments and accessories that reflected social status, wealth, and regional customs. With the introduction of sumptuary laws aimed at regulating what individuals could wear based on their class, fashion became an important means of expressing identity. This guide explores the various types of clothing worn in the 14th century, including garments for both men and women, and highlights key trends and styles that defined this transformative period.

Comparison of 14th Century Clothing Styles

Type of Clothing	Description	Common Fabrics	Typical Colors	Accessories
Cotehardie (Women)	Fitted gown with a low waistline and scooped neckline	Wool, silk	Bright colors, earth tones	Lappets, fitchets
Kirtle (Women)	Tight-fitting garment worn under cotehardies	Linen, wool	Varied, often contrasting	None specific
Sideless Surcoat (Women)	Decorative overgown with large armholes	Silk, brocade	Rich colors	Plastron
Chemise (Women)	Simple linen undergarment	Linen	Natural colors	None specific
Hose (Women)	Leg coverings, usually colorful	Wool, silk blend	Varied colors	Garters
Tunic (Men)	Basic garment with long sleeves, often belted	Wool, linen	Earth tones, vibrant colors	Belts, hoods
Pourpoint (Men)	Fitted jacket, often worn under armor	Wool, silk	Bright colors	None specific
Hose (Men)	Leg coverings, often separate pieces	Wool, linen	Varied colors	Garters, codpieces
Pointed Shoes (Both)	Footwear with elongated toes	Leather	Natural colors	None specific

Evolution of Women’s Fashion in the 14th Century

The women’s fashion of the 14th century underwent significant changes, transitioning from the long, flowing gowns of previous centuries to more fitted and structured styles. The cotehardie emerged as a key garment, characterized by its snug fit and low waistline, often showcasing the wealth of the wearer through intricate designs and luxurious fabrics.

Key Garments

1. Cotehardie: This gown featured a wide neckline and was typically made from wool or silk. Women of higher social status often wore multiple layers to display wealth, with the kirtle underneath being a common choice. The sleeves were often elaborate, ending at the elbow and featuring embellishments like lappets.

2. Sideless Surcoat: Initially popular for its aesthetic appeal, this garment had large armholes and was often worn over a cotehardie. It was considered daring due to its revealing nature and was typically reserved for ceremonial occasions later in the century.

3. Chemise: Serving as a foundational garment, the chemise was a simple linen piece that varied in neckline styles. It was an essential part of women’s wardrobes and provided comfort beneath more elaborate dresses.

Accessories and Hairstyles

Accessories played a pivotal role in women’s fashion. Women adorned their outfits with fitchets, slits in their gowns for easy access to personal items, and often wore elaborate headpieces. Hairstyles became increasingly complex, with styles like the crespine—a jeweled net that held hair in place.

Men’s Fashion Trends in the 14th Century

Men’s fashion in the 14th century was marked by practicality and style. Garments were designed to be functional while still reflecting the wearer’s status. The tunic was a staple, often belted at the waist, and was complemented by a variety of outer garments.

Key Garments

1. Tunic: The foundational piece for men, tunics varied in length and style. They were typically paired with trousers or hose and could be worn alone or layered with other garments.

2. Pourpoint: A fitted jacket that provided warmth and was often worn under armor. The pourpoint was designed to showcase the body shape, often adorned with intricate embroidery.

3. Hose: Essential for modesty and warmth, men wore hose that covered their legs and were often secured with garters.

Footwear

Footwear was also an essential aspect of men’s fashion. Pointed shoes, known as poulaines, were in vogue, characterized by their distinctively long, pointed toes. The style varied by region, with some variations being more extravagant than others.

Social Implications of Fashion

Fashion in the 14th century was not merely a matter of personal taste; it was deeply intertwined with social hierarchy. The Sumptuary Laws enacted in 1363 aimed to reinforce class distinctions by regulating what individuals could wear. These laws dictated that only certain classes could afford luxurious fabrics and styles, creating a visual representation of social structure.

As a result, individuals often sought ways to circumvent these laws, leading to a culture of embellishment and modification in clothing. For instance, a lower-class woman might wear a simpler version of an upper-class gown, layering garments to create an illusion of wealth.

Technical Features of 14th Century Clothing

Feature	Description	Material	Purpose
Layering	Multiple garments worn together	Wool, linen, silk	Showcases wealth
Fitchets	Slits for accessing pockets	Integrated into gowns	Practicality
Lappets	Decorative sleeve extensions	Fabric from the garment	Aesthetic appeal
Pointed toes	Footwear style	Leather	Status symbol

Related Video

Conclusion

The 14th century was a dynamic period for fashion, characterized by a shift towards more elaborate and structured clothing. Both men and women adopted styles that showcased their social status while navigating the constraints imposed by sumptuary laws. The evolution of garments such as the cotehardie, kirtle, and pourpoint reflects broader social changes, highlighting the interplay between fashion, identity, and class in medieval Europe.

FAQ

What were the main fabrics used in 14th century clothing?
The primary fabrics included wool, linen, and silk, with wool being the most common due to its availability and warmth.

What is a cotehardie?
The cotehardie is a fitted gown worn by women, known for its low waistline and wide neckline, often embellished to showcase wealth.

How did sumptuary laws affect fashion in the 14th century?
Sumptuary laws regulated what individuals could wear based on their social class, reinforcing class distinctions and influencing fashion choices.

What accessories were common in women’s fashion during this period?
Common accessories included fitchets (slits for reaching pockets), elaborate headpieces, and decorative sleeves.

What characterized men’s footwear in the 14th century?
Men’s footwear was often pointed, known as poulaines, which were a symbol of status and fashion.

Did hairstyles change in the 14th century?
Yes, hairstyles became more complex, with women often using accessories like the crespine to hold their hair in elaborate styles.

What was the purpose of the chemise?
The chemise served as a foundational garment for women, providing comfort and modesty beneath more elaborate dresses.

What is a sideless surcoat?
A sideless surcoat is a decorative overgown with large armholes, often worn over a cotehardie, which became popular for its revealing style.

How did fashion reflect social status in the 14th century?
Fashion reflected social status through the use of luxurious fabrics, intricate designs, and adherence to or defiance of sumptuary laws.

What were common colors in 14th century clothing?
Common colors included bright hues for the wealthy and earth tones for the lower classes, with dyeing techniques allowing for a variety of shades.