A Comprehensive Guide to 12th Century Dress

The 12th century marked a significant evolution in fashion and clothing, influenced by cultural exchanges during the Crusades, regional variations, and the growing distinction between social classes. This guide delves into the types of garments worn during this period, their societal implications, and the craftsmanship that defined medieval attire.

Comparison of 12th Century Dress Types

Dress Type	Description	Key Features	Social Class
Bliaut	A long, fitted garment worn by both men and women.	Knife pleats, wide sleeves, often belted.	Nobility and Clergy
Chemise	An undergarment, typically made of linen.	Loose-fitting, long sleeves, worn as a base layer.	All classes
Tunic	A basic garment that served as a dress or shirt.	Varies in length, can be embroidered or plain.	Commoners to Nobility
Cloak	An outer garment for warmth and protection.	Often woolen, varied lengths, sometimes lined.	All classes
Surcoat	A garment worn over the armor, often with heraldic designs.	Open sides, varied lengths, decorative.	Knights and Nobility
Hood	A head covering that could be attached to garments or worn independently.	Various shapes, often lined, used for warmth.	All classes

The Evolution of 12th Century Dress

The Bliaut: A Symbol of Nobility

The bliaut emerged as a prominent garment in 12th-century fashion, characterized by its fitted silhouette and elaborate designs. Originating from France, this garment was a favorite among the nobility. The bliaut featured intricate knife pleats, wide sleeves, and often included a double-wrapped belt, which accentuated the waist. Artistic depictions, particularly in the statues at Chartres, showcase its elegance and the luxurious fabrics used, such as silk (www.eg.bucknell.edu).

Undergarments: The Essential Chemise

At the foundation of medieval women’s attire was the chemise, a simple yet crucial undergarment made of linen. This loose-fitting garment served not only for comfort but also as a protective layer between the body and heavier outer garments. The chemise was typically long-sleeved and could be worn by women of all social classes, providing a canvas for various styles to be layered upon it (world4.eu).

The Versatility of Tunics

The tunic was a staple in both men’s and women’s wardrobes throughout the 12th century. This garment varied greatly in length and style, ranging from knee-length for men to floor-length for women. The tunic’s material and embellishments often indicated the wearer’s social standing, from simple wool for peasants to richly embroidered fabrics for the upper classes (schoolworkhelper.net).

Cloaks and Outer Garments

With the onset of colder weather, cloaks became essential for warmth and protection. Typically made from wool, these garments varied in length and were often lined for added insulation. Cloaks could be simple or adorned with decorative elements such as embroidery or fur, and they were worn by people across all classes (knightstemplar.co).

Surcoats: Fashion Meets Function

Knights would often wear surcoats over their armor, particularly during the 12th century. These garments were not only functional but also served as a display of heraldry, showcasing the wearer’s family crest or colors. The open sides of the surcoat allowed for ease of movement, making it practical for combat while also being visually striking (world4.eu).

Headwear: Hoods and Caps

Hoods played a significant role in 12th-century fashion, providing warmth and style. They came in various shapes and sizes and could be attached to cloaks or worn separately. The materials ranged from simple fabric to luxurious silk, depending on the wearer’s status. Hoods were common among all social classes, serving both practical purposes and as fashion statements (postej-stew.dk).

Comparison of Technical Features of 12th Century Dress

Feature	Bliaut	Chemise	Tunic	Cloak	Surcoat	Hood
Material	Silk, wool	Linen	Wool, linen	Wool, fur	Wool	Wool, linen
Length	Floor-length	Varies	Knee to floor-length	Varies	Knee to floor-length	Varies
Sleeve Style	Wide sleeves	Long sleeves	Varies (tight/loose)	Varies (can be sleeveless)	Varies	Varies
Belted	Yes	No	Sometimes	No	Yes	No
Decoration	Elaborate embroidery	Plain	Varies	Decorative edges	Heraldic designs	Simple or ornate

Cultural Significance of Clothing in the 12th Century

Clothing during the 12th century was not merely about protection from the elements; it was a reflection of identity, status, and cultural values. The materials used, the style of garments, and the way they were worn communicated information about the wearer’s social class, occupation, and even moral standing. The distinction between upper-class and common attire became increasingly pronounced, highlighting the growing complexity of social hierarchies.

Conclusion

The 12th century was a transformative period in the realm of fashion, characterized by the introduction of elaborate garments like the bliaut and the continued importance of foundational pieces like the chemise and tunic. Clothing served as a canvas for artistic expression and a reflection of social status. Understanding these garments offers valuable insights into the cultural and societal dynamics of medieval life.

FAQ

What is a bliaut?
A bliaut is a fitted garment worn by both men and women during the 12th century, characterized by its long length, knife pleats, and wide sleeves, often belted to accentuate the waist.

What role did the chemise play in medieval dress?
The chemise served as an undergarment made of linen, providing comfort and a protective layer between the body and outer garments for both men and women.

How did tunics vary in the 12th century?
Tunics varied significantly in length and style, with men typically wearing knee-length tunics and women opting for longer styles. The materials and decorations indicated social status.

What materials were commonly used for cloaks?
Cloaks were primarily made from wool, often lined for warmth, and could be adorned with decorative elements such as embroidery or fur, depending on the wearer’s status.

What is the significance of the surcoat?
The surcoat was worn by knights over their armor, serving both functional purposes and displaying heraldry, showcasing the wearer’s family crest or colors.

What types of headwear were popular in the 12th century?
Hoods were popular head coverings, often attached to cloaks or worn separately. They varied in shape and material, serving both practical and fashionable purposes.

How did clothing reflect social status in medieval times?
The type of garment, material used, and embellishments indicated the wearer’s social class, with wealthier individuals able to afford more luxurious fabrics and intricate designs.

What were common fabrics used in 12th-century dress?
Common fabrics included linen for undergarments, wool for outer garments, and silk for more luxurious pieces like the bliaut.

How did the 12th-century dress influence modern fashion?
The styles and techniques developed during the 12th century laid the groundwork for future fashion trends, with elements such as fitted garments and elaborate designs still seen in contemporary fashion.

What was the impact of the Crusades on 12th-century clothing?
The Crusades facilitated cultural exchange and the introduction of new materials and designs, influencing the garments worn in Europe and contributing to the evolution of medieval fashion.